"Jaws has a second wave-rearing trick. The swells on either side of the reef, moving in deeper water, bend inward, focusing much of their energy on the center of the wave crest. This refraction of wave energy is like a magnifying glass gathering light into a hot, focused beam. In essence, the reef squeezes the wave inward and upward. Surfers call it a peaking wave. It's a pyramid of water worthy of a pharaoh."
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